Plunge into local life in Luang Prabang at Phosi Market

Phosi Market
LUANG PRABANG, Laos –

Silvery, slithery things indignantly flick their tails sending a wave of water out of the bucket. Unidentified creatures with small paws sizzle on a grill. There are stacks of limes, piles of chilli, heaps of sticky rice, towering flats of eggs of all shapes, sizes and colours. Vibrant vegetables, pungent jungle herbs – feel the pillowy mushrooms with your fingers, sniff the small bundles of mysterious bark, their medicinal aroma mingling with the sweet ripe smell wafting from the pineapples. Bumpy chicken feet protrude upward from carcasses on a table, an eerie still life. Suddenly, you feel something squish and ooze underfoot. Is it a rotten rambutan? Or an eyeball?

If you want to immerse yourself in local life, head to Phosi Market (also spelled Phousy or Phosy), Luang Prabang’s largest market. It supplies the entire town. Be there early (6-8am is best) to see it at its peak of busyness. While Luang Prabang’s “Morning Market” is closer, you’ll be bumping elbows with more tourists taking photos than actual locals shopping and the experience pales in comparison.

A walk through Phosi’s fresh market is not for the faint or squeamish. It’s fascinating, raw and real. You’ll see ingredients you’ve never seen before. Keep your eye out for – or follow your nose to – the buckets of rotting fish floating in revolting brown goo. “Padek” or Lao fish sauce is an essential ingredient in Lao cuisine.

JUST THE FACTS
How to get to Phosi / Phosy Market

Phosi / Phosy Market is a 10-minute easy bike ride from the Luang Prabang town centre. You will have to pay a small amount to park your bike.

Looking for a market tour in Luang Prabang? Try Tamarind or Bamboo Tree‘s Lao cooking class, or Banana Boat’s Culinary City Tour with Chef Toui, who I wrote about in my post about the noodle soup dish of Laos.

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This piece was a “Highlight” of Luang Prabang I wrote and posted on AFAR.com, where I frequently share insider experiences about the places I live and travel. See all my AFAR.com Luang Prabang highlights here.

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